After eight relaxing days in Cafayate we take Ruta 40 direction Cachi. Ruta 40 is legendary, it connects the South of Argentina with the North and is 5000 km long. The scenery we drive through is breathtaking, it is difficult to catch all that beauty with a camera. Wouter, our Belgian neighbour at the campsite, informed us that there is a fantastic bodega at 2000m at 36 km from the Ruta. At 10.30 am we are watching the movie of the history of the enterprise drinking a glass of excellent wine. The owner has succeeded in making a world wine leader from the neglected vineyards in 8 years’ time. We taste four wines and the sommelier is generous. He invites us to take a walk in the sun in the huge garden with a glass of wine in our hands. The owners are not there and we have a good look around, if we were asked we would not mind watching over the mansion for a while. After a good nap we head for Cachi, a pittoresque village at 2280m. The next day we visit Parque Nacional Cardones. The mountain sides are covered with huge cactuses, called cardones. They grow 1 cm per year and can get as high 10m. They have the first fruit when they are 50. Each fruit contains 80.000 seeds, only one of these finds enough protection under a bush to grow roots. The next 8 to 10 years are crucial for their survival as they cannot stock moisture up till then. Amazing that so many of them make it here! Another interesting fact is that the road that goes through the park is part of the Inca network of roads, it goes straight to the Cuesta del Obisqo, a mountain top at 3475m, a new record for our Tsjolbak. At night it is freezing for the first time and water gets in our diesel. The Tsjolbak’s fumes are white and the power is low. We have to purge the diesel filter and the park guard is not happy to see that. We have to climb another 15 km and that goes without problem. Then we go down to Salta’s muncipal campsite next to the biggest pool we ever saw. We have a second diesel filter installed, which goes easier than Michel expected. One of the musts to see in Salta is the MAAM museum, known for exhibiting Inca child mummies. Some critics think it is improper to show dead bodies. The museum is well set up and very interesting. We also visit the museo de arte etnico with splendid textile and wooden objects and extraordinary silver jewelry of the Mapuche of Chili and ceramics from the Andes. For the following day we book an excursion of 500 km, which will take us to 4170m. We have no idea what effect the height will have on us. The driver is fetching us at 7am at the campsite. Two more people will join us but they are not at the meeting point. When finally they arrive half an hour later, the battery of the car is empty. After one more hour a car comes to start the battery and finally we leave. Our first stop is the village of Purmamarca surrounded by rocky mountains with seven colours. Then we go to Salines Grandes, a huge salt lake where also the houses and furniture are made of salt. On the top of 4170m we fortunately do not suffer from height disease. We drive above the clouds and the whole day we have lots of sun. San Antonio de los Cobres is one of the stations where “el tren a la nubes” used to stop. Unfortunately the train is temporarily not operational because of rail works. We had hoped to see the famous viaduct La Polvorilla but there is not enough time any more. The road back to Salta descends over 250 km and the driver, a former pilot of the Argentinian army, goes down fast (sometimes at 120 km/hour). The nights are cold in Salta and there is hardly any sun.
Parque Nacional El Rey at 220 km West from Salta is our next destination. 35 km before the entrance we find a pittoresque campsite, the path to enter goes down sharply and at some point we and also the owner think the Tsjolbak will turn over. This turns out to be only the beginning of an adventurous trip to the park crossing six rivers. Without 4×4 the park cannot be reached. On the campsite we are the only visitors. There are toilets but no other facilities. Birds, such as paos de montes, urracacas and chunas come very near. Of the game that lives there we only see corzuelas, a small deer. The small flying ticks (garrapatas) are causing very itching red bites, days afterwards they are still hurting. Fortunately the bites cause no further harm. According to the ranger there is a not endemic bull in the park that has to be shot. In the evening we hear rifle shots and when we leave the following morning there are again six shots, hopefully with the expected result. A German lady with a rented car is stuck in the first river near the entrance. How she dared to cross with a small car like that, we wonder. Two rangers come to help and the four of us succeed in pushing here to the side again.
Out of the park we drive through flat pampas over straight road with putholes and spurs. There are no campsites any more and after three days we take a room in a hospedaje to have a warm shower. Another two days of boring rides follow until we have a breakdown in Castelli on Saturday afternoon. The Tsjolbak refuses to move. Michel thinks the clutch has given up. A local mechanic tows us to a gas station where we can camp and even take a hot shower.
On Sunday a man, Edgardo, passes with a trailer. He is prepared to get us to the nearest Toyota garage but the Tsjolbak is too heavy. Edgardo is trying hard to find a solution for us and succeeds in arranging transport for us to the Formosa garage where we were before for maintenance work. The trailer arrives on Monday at midday and the Tsjolbak is being loaded to drive to Formosa, 310 km further North. At 5 pm we get there. The whole day we try to keep contact with Jessica, a Belgian lady married to an Argentinian, whom Michel met by coincidence a month ago. They agree to advance the money to pay the transporter. Jessica still has a Belgian bank account so that we can easily pay her back. They also offer us hospitality for five days, for which we are very grateful because a 5 days stay in a hotel would outbalance our buget even more. We sleep in the children’s room. The children of 3 and 2 move to the parents room. In the Toyota worshop they find out that the clutch disk, plate and thrust ball bearing are damaged. To buy new parts we have to go to Asuncion, Paraguay. A friend of the family is driving us to the border, where the car is left on a parking site. We get two stamps in our passport and take a bus to Asuncion, then a taxi ride of 45 mins to the Toyota parts centre. We have to wait three hours for the parts. Fortunately there is a shopping centre nearby to have lunch and take dollars from the ATM, because we get a 20% reduction if we pay cash in dollars. It is dark when we get back to the border by taxi, an easy prey for the Paraguyian police. They stop the taxi, ask for our passports and want to know what is in our bag. They ask US$ 100 because they claim that tourists are not allowed to export car parts. As we move further we can see how cheerful they are with their catch! The Argentinians avoid passing through Paraguay because the police there is very corrupt.
The parts are being professionally installed in the Toyota workshop and on Saturday 4 June we leave Formosa to drive 600 km to the Brazilian border. We hope our Tsjolbak is well repaired and that we will find warmer wheather.
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