We drive on a good asphalt road from Mucugê to Ibicoara, there we look for camping Refugio FX, we have no precise coordinates and get lost. We see beautiful landscapes, ride on bumpy dirt roads and repeatedly ask for directions. Finally, there is a helpful motorcyclist who leads us to the place. Completely hidden amidst banana trees and other plants we find the Refugio. There is wifi and electricity and, surprisingly, someone who speaks French, Fernanda. She has worked for several years as a dancer and teacher in France and in Ghent. She organizes for us a trip to the Cachoeira do Buracao with a guide, first 20 km with her car, then an easy walk to the top of the waterfall, where we catch a glimpse of the crashing water. To see the waterfall in all its splendor we have to climb down over stairs, rocks and stones. When we are finally down, we get a life jacket and can swim up to the foot of the waterfall together with dozens of other people. The waterfall is magnificent, a present for us to celebrate the thirtieth anniversary of our first meeting! We picnic on the rocks with a view on the waterfall and then go back to the top, a frighteningly deep gorge. On the way back we swim in a pool at the foot of a mini waterfall, very refreshing. We ask later, as a joke, at the box office whether we get a reduction because we were unquestionably the two oldest visitors that day, but the answer is no. Fernanda knows something about the Belgian beer culture and takes us to an artisan brewery, the beer tastes great in the tropical garden. The next day we return to our familiar campsite in Mucugê. Michel starts to worry seriously about the grinding noise that the tjsolbak makes on uneven slopes. He asks a mechanic to walk next to the car while driving, but the cause is not found. That does not prevent us from visiting Igatu, an old diamond village, we descend from 1000 meters to 300 m, the camper makes terrible noises on the very uneven stony road, when we drive over asphalt to Fazenda Marimbus it gets better. The campsite there is closed but the owner lets us stay overnight next to the river Saô Antonio, 3km deep in the forest. The temperature at night does not go below 27 ° C. Since there is no electricity, our generator has to keep the air conditioning running. The next day we make a quiet guided canoe trip on the wide river with many meanders. The banks are covered with large papyruses. Michel throws his fishing line in the water but fishes do not bite, even when our guide hangs small shrimps on the hooks. Teasingly fishes jump to the surface, a good thing we do not need fish to survive. On our way to the north of Chapada we stop again in Mucugê. While Michel is repairing the broken waste water tank, Roos and a group of other campers visit a strawberry farm, coffee fields and a cave with prehistoric drawings. In the evening a nice barbecue is organized with all campers and it turns out that the Brazilians can compete with the Belgians as bon vivants. The following day is the final farewell to the owners of the campsite, Rubens and Manu, fantastic people who helped us to find all those pearls in the south of the Chapada Diamantina. Olho do Agua is our next destination, another wonderful place at a crystal clear pond. We are 3 km away from the civilized world and when the day trippers are gone it is wonderfully quiet. We go swimming at 6 o’clock, during the day it is 38 ° C and we enjoy the fresh water to the fullest. We see a huge amount of small fishes when snorkelling. 5 km further is another pearl, the Poco Azul, a real tourist attraction. At the bottom of a large cave there is an azure blue pool in which we snorkel. Only 10 people are admitted at the same time and the stay is limited to 15 minutes. It is spectacular. We take lunch in a self-service. There is a large choice of dishes and you can eat as much as you want at a fixed price. We find that kind of restaurants all over South America, sometimes they weigh your plate to determine the price.
Our final destination in Chapada is Lencois, where the tourist development started. It is now a cosy town, one picturesque restaurant or shop next to the other. The crackling and grinding of the tjsolbak is getting worse and Michel is determined to find the cause. That night the rain is pouring down, according to the locals that never happened before. Michel examines the bottom of tjsolbak in the morning and, to his dismay, sees that the chassis in front of the springs is completely broken, a very worrying break. Roos enters a tourist office for information and gets from the helpful young man an address where we might have the tsjolbak repaired. An appointment is made with a friend / guide who will accompany Michel to the garage the next day. Michel drives cautiously over the 60 km at 40 per hour. Once there, Michel gets very bad news first because there is another break in the back. Only then he gets the good news that they will be able to repair the cracks by the next day. We now realize that we have escaped the worst, for 3000 km we were not aware of the danger. The next day we get the news that the welding will take one day more because the electricity fell out. We rent a chalet at the campsite. On Wednesday we are picked up by the guide who takes us to the garage. The cracks are welded and reinforced with a plate and we no longer hear bad sounds on the way back. As a farewell to the Chapada we drive to Pai Sao Ignacio to admire a grand view of the canyons after a short climb to 1025m.
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